A Disney cruise without children - perfect sense as adults are the biggest kids of all

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Two couples are chatting in the Rainforest spa area. �It�s our fourth Disney cruise,� says one husband. �It�s our tenth,� says the other (spot the subtle one-upmanship). �First without kids, though.�
�Hey! Us too!�
And I would have asked whether they were stark-staring mad to go on a Disney cruise without kids but on a Disney cruise everything is happy and smiley, so I didn�t.
Frankly, though, I wasn�t sure why anyone who hasn�t got children would go on a Disney cruise, especially on this ship, which has had millions of pounds worth of pixie dust sprinkled on it in the past few months.
Magic, when it launched in 1998, was the first Disney ship to set sail. I boarded for a two-day cruise from Miami to see what it�s like since the makeover, and whether it can compete with the newer ships in the fleet.
What�s clear is that it�s even more about the kids now. At the heart of the ship, on Deck Five, is the vast Oceaneer�s Club. Parents reported having to prise their kids away - and for good reason. The characters of Pixar�s Toy Story come to life in Andy�s Room, with a supersize Mr Potato Head and Hamm the piggy bank, while Slinky Dog becomes a giant slide.
Marvel�s Avengers Academy puts kids at the heart of Captain America�s adventures with the help of computer stations and a video wall. There are also craft sessions for younger kids at the Mickey Mouse Club, plus Tinkerbell�s hangout in Pixie Hollow.
Would-be pirates can go through a secret passage to the Oceaneer Lab, where they can learn their craft and even take turns to steer the ship. For the youngest passengers there is a nursery with a one-way mirror which allows parents to check up on their napping kids (the check in and out process is thorough).
Older children have Edge and teenagers get to lounge around at Vibe, an eyrie on Deck 11 designed to look like a college hangout.
When they�re not throwing themselves down the AquaDuck, that is.
This new three-storey waterslide was instantly popular with the older kids (and their parents). The tube takes you out over the ocean at high speeds before returning you to the deck.
Smaller children can have fun with the Goofy Pool, which is full of watery tricks.
Even though there can be up to 2,700 passengers, it didn�t feel crowded.
Next door is the Cove, an adults-only pool (the most comfortable sunloungers are here) which leads to the Senses spa, which is adults-only too. Teens have their own spa area.
Vast: The Disney Cruise Line's ship Magic holds up to 2,700 passengers
The dining areas have had a facelift. Finding Nemo gets a nod in Cabanas, a vast buffet on the ninth deck with a seaside theme, while Brazil, country of the moment thanks to the forthcoming World Cup and Olympics, is represented by Carioca�s, where you�ll find empanadas and images of Rio - much to the delight of our waiter Evandro, who was Brazilian (and did magic tricks between courses).
But the highlight was Animator�s Palate, the new restaurant on Deck Four.
When I saw it in action on the Disney Fantasy last year, it blew me - and everyone else I met - away.
There are video screens around the restaurant and passengers draw on a place mat which, through the magic of technology, turns everyone into an animator.
They�d decided to save the full effect for longer cruises than our two-day voyage but it should be up and running when the Magic arrives in Europe next summer and the animation will rival the food for attention.
Passengers are announced as families - and, yes, it�s very much a child-centred cruise. All in all, the Disney Magic had more princesses than a royal wedding (or a nightclub opening).
At every turn, there were little girls in extravagant Disney gowns.
But on the first night pirates took centre stage, with whole families wearing pirate fashion to go on deck for fireworks and a party.
There is also Disney Dreams, a live show featuring many popular characters.
There�s plenty just for adults, too, and the cr�ches stay open until the wee hours so parents can get a break.
Fathoms is the nightclub area with moody lighting and cushioned booths to sink into.
O�Gills pub mixes Irish whimsy and draught beers. Also hugely popular was the Keys piano bar.
The pianist played Billy Joel and Bond-theme classics, the cocktails were expertly made and the mood was mellow.
Those touches go a long way to explaining why one in three bookings for Disney Cruises are for people travelling without children.
Most of the new elements, from the Oceaneer�s Club to Fathoms, come from Joe Lanzisero, the chief �imagineer�.
He was on board inspecting the new features, with wild scientist hair and enthusiasm to match. �We all have gifts, even if we don�t realise it,� he said. �Mine is that I stalled at the age of 12.�
I realise that sometimes adults are the biggest kids of all - and suddenly the Disney strategy makes perfect sense.

View gallery "
Take a tour of the 're-imagined' Disney Magic cruise ship View gallery

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